TO SAY THAT AGRA IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE TAJ MAHAL WOULD BE NOT BE MAKING A DECLARATION TOO SWEEPING OR SURPRISING. THIS UNIVERSALLY REGARDED WONDER IS A TESTAMENT TO BOTH THE ARCHITECTURE FINESSE OF THE MUGHAL ERA AND THE .LEVEL OF CRAFTSMANSHIP AND VISION THAT WAS PREVALENT. BUT AGRA DOES NOT BEING AND END AT THE TAJ; IN FACT, IT WOULD BE DISMISSING THE CITY`S RICH HISTORY TO NOT TAKE INTO ACCOUNT OTHER PLACES AND SPOTS THAT HAVE PLAYED THEIR ROLES IN DOCUMENTING THE PAST. AND THEN MOVING FORWARD FROM JUST EXPERIENCING THE PAST IN AGRA, THE CITY`S LOCAL CULTURE IS FULL OF SO MUCH ENERGY THAT YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE A MINUTE TO STOP AND LOOK AROUND TO TRULY APPRECIATE EVERYTHING THAT IS HAPPENING AROUND YOU.
1)MARVEL IN MARBLE
This is probably the most well-known ‘secret’ of Agra, and
understandably so, as this Yamuna-overlooking-mausoleum was the first tomb in
India to have been built entirely out of marble. Despite being constructed
before the Taj, and also setting a precedent in terms of marble construction
and pietra dura art, it is still popularly known as the ‘Baby Taj’. It is the
tomb of Mir Ghiyas Beg, the father of Nur Jahan (Jahangir’s wife).
On the exterior of this structure one can see many a wine
glass, done in the pietra dura style, which was amusedly explained to us as
having been done by Nur Jahan to appease one of Jahangir’s many indulgences.
The construction of the building was completed in 1628 CE, with multiple
chambers for the royals and the prime minister. The scene-stealer at this
monument was the pietra dura work. This form of art involves making pictorial
mosaic work using stones or semi-precious stones, and in this case fitting them
into the marble base. The sheer detail of this work makes you stop and marvel
at the patience and skill that would be required to produce such beauty.
LOCATION Yamuna Bridge, Katra Wazir Khan, 10
minutes away from Chini-Ka-Rauzah.
2)THE MYTH OF MARIAM
Driving through narrow city lanes, the first place on our
list was Mariam’s Tomb in Sikandra. Something that would prove to be common for
most of these spots was the absence of an imposing entry, the grand entrances
that we usually associate with Mughal architecture. Reconstructed from a
previous Lodi-era structure by Jahangir to make a mausoleum for his mother,
Mariam Zamani, between 1623 and 1627 AD, this monument has quite the mystery
around it. Most believe that this is the mausoleum for Akbar’s famous wife, the Rajput princess Jodha Bai, but our
guide, Deepak, told us an incredible story—something fit for perhaps India’s
very own Dan Brown plot set in the Mughal era. Jodha Bai, he said, was actually
a Portuguese woman named Dona Maria. He also suggested that on top of the domes
of Mariam’s Tomb, there used to be crosses, an important part of Christian
symbolism, all of which have been removed. The mausoleum itself, however,
follows the usual Mughal pattern. The quietly impressive red sandstone
structure stands in the middle of symmetrical, marigold-lined gardens, and
seems to hold an attraction for the young couples of Agra, as they seemed to be
the only ones gracing it with their presence.
LOCATION Agra-Mathura Road,
Sikandra, 40 minutes away from Taj Mahal.
3)FORGOTTEN TOMB OF A
GREAT KING
Just a stone’s throw away from Mariam’s Tomb, the mausoleum
for one of the greatest Mughal kings is as full of splendour as the history he
created. Akbar himself started its construction, but died in 1605 when the work
had just begun, leaving his son, Jahangir, to complete it. With gardens that
have been taken over by elegant deer, this enormous property has one main
entrance and three ornamental ones—the importance of symmetry in Mughal
architecture cannot be overstated. In fact, just to highlight the size of the site,
after we had taken a round—or at least what I thought was a full round—I
started walking towards an entrance until our guide stopped me and sweetly told
me that Akbar’s Tomb is five times the size of the area that the Taj lies on,
and that the main entrance was still around the corner. The crypt is reached
after going through a dark passage, and its doorway is kept intentionally low
so that all those who enter, bow their heads in respect. The exteriors of the
monument are dotted with symbols of various religions, highlighting Akbar’s
policy of religious tolerance and acceptance.
LOCATION Agra-Mathura Road,
Sikandra, close to Mariam’s Tomb.
4)ALL FOR A CAUSE
LOCATION Fatehabad Road,
opposite The Gateway Hotel.
5)THE DUTCH CONNECTION
Aptly described as Taj in a miniature, Hessing’s Tomb can be
found in the Roman Catholic Cemetery. It was built to honour Colonel John
William Hessing, a Dutchman who entered the service of a Maratha chief. He was
made commandant of the Agra Fort and its Maratha garrison, and died defending
it in 1803. We entered the main cemetery by climbing through a literal hole in
the door, and surprised the workers there with our stumbling presence.
Constructed in red sandstone by his children, the resemblance to its larger,
marble-made predecessor is striking. We ascended the twin stairways attached to
it, and walked along the corridor surrounding the main tomb, slowly trying to
absorb the impact the Taj has had on the design of this monument of affection.
LOCATION Nehru Nagar, Civil Lines.
6)A QUIET VIEW OF THE
TAJ
If you’re going to Agra, then it’s quite likely that you’ll
be visiting the Taj Mahal. But what if there was another way to take it in?
Enter Mehtab Bagh. Situated on the opposite bank of the Taj, this ‘Moonlight
Garden’ offers a vantage point to see Agra’s pride and joy, and has the advantage of being a lot
less crowded. With photo opportunities galore, this garden complex is also
associated with the mysterious Black Taj myth, and is said to have been the
proposed location for this monument. It was Babur who first took this garden
under his care, though Shah Jahan is the one who moulded it into the style that
Babur founded. While looking at the Taj, I couldn’t help but think of the
romantic yet sad story our guide told us of why Shah Jahan built this garden—it
was for the Emperor to sit in on a moonlit night, and look at the building that
housed the remains of his beloved. This site is now popular for film locations
and wedding photo-shoots. We witnessed a couple trying to create their own Shah
Jahan-Mumtaz Mahal story through photoop at the garden.
LOCATION Opposite bank of
the Taj Mahal.
7)AKBAR’S CHURCH
While its next-door neighbour, the Church of Immaculate
Conception, may have been constructed on a grander and larger scale, Akbar’s
Church offers an incomparable history. Nestled away near the campus of St
Peter’s College, it is one of the smaller, simpler secrets of Agra. Built
between 1598 and 1599 AD, it was constructed when Akbar gave a portion of land
to the Jesuit Fathers for the purpose of building a church. Our guide, Godwin,
took us in the modest church, and when inside the wings of it, told us
excitedly that if we were to look at the shape that the aisles formed inside,
including the wings, one could see the shape of a cross. If walls could talk,
this church would probably be able to keep everyone engrossed, as it has
witnessed a fair share of turbulent history that includes its destruction
(during a Persian invasion by Ahmed Shah Abdali) and re-construction in the
18th century.
LOCATION Wazirpura Road, near
St Peter’s College, 10 minutes away from the Roman Catholic Cemetery.
8)SWEET CRAVINGS
When you think food in Agra, you think petha (a soft sweet,
usually made of pumpkin) and when you think petha, you will, in all likelihood,
find yourself at Munnalal Agarwal Pethe Wale. The city is filled with eateries
that sell this sweet and Munnalal is a local favourite. It offers a vast array of
flavours, ranging from the usual white petha to the more exciting flavours of
gulaab, cherry, badaam and orange. Our favourite was the red petha, which the
owner of the sweet shop claimed was made from ‘red sugar’, but no more details
were given despite our insistent questioning. What’s a secret of a city,
without its own secret? According to the owner, when his father started the
shop 80 years ago, they would not let customers inside, but in fact the petha
was lowered down the window in a basket. This was done to keep the ingredients
of the popular petha a secret. While I can’t vouch for the chemistry of ‘red
sugar’, I can vouch for the exceptional taste of the sweet, which you can now
take home in a box rather than a basket.
LOCATION Rawat Para, near Kinari
Bazaar.
9)SHOPPER’S STOP
If the relics of the past begin to tire you, let the local
marketplace of Kinari Bazaar jolt you into the present. And when I say jolt
you, I mean the crowds will literally force you to pay attention. The
innumerable people you see here are all flocking to the garment shops that
Kinari Bazaar is known for. It is Agra’s very own Chawri Bazaar. The narrow
lanes offer a break from cars, and make you fully appreciate the energy of the
place by forcing you to walk through the bustling lanes. Having entered from
the Agra Fort Railway Station side, we were able to catch a glimpse of the Jama
Masjid, which is located right on the outskirts of the market, and offers yet
another reason to visit.
LOCATION Near Agra Fort
Railway Station and Jama Masjid.
10)CHINI-KA-RAUZAH
Deriving its name from its glazed-tile decoration,
Chini-Ka-Rauzah is the tomb of Shukrullah Shirazi. He served as the wazir
(prime minister) of Shah Jahan, and built his own tomb during his lifetime,
from 1628 to 1639 AD. There is awe over the tile work, where the surface is
panelled, and floral designs with borders are depicted in a wide variety of
colours, coming together with spectacular effect to make flowers in different
patterns. Though the monument has now lost so much of its former glory and
beauty that the only way to appreciate it, is to take a step back and fill in
the missing pieces yourself. The interior is better maintained, and has
gorgeous paintings on the walls and ceilings. While we were looking around, we
suddenly heard someone call out, “Allahu Akbar!” (God is the greatest). Turning
around in surprise, we saw that the caretaker of the monument had entered, and
had decided to mark his entrance by showing us the echo-producing capabilities
of the interiors—and echo it did!
LOCATION Ram Bagh, 30 minutes
away from Taj Mahal.
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